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Media Blasting

It’s important to consider that your paint job is only as good as the surface preparation of the metal being painted. Media blasting is a fast, affordable and safe way completely strip paint, bondo, grime and most importantly, rust from your car in order to provide a clean palette for coating.

North Texas Customs has a streamlined media blasting process and the proper equipment to make stripping your car quick while keeping cost down. We are not an industrial blast house; as a complete resto/rod shop, we know how to treat your car’s panels. In fact, blasting a car first is the only way to warranty our paint jobs since we can be certain any underlying corrosion has been eliminated.

Media blasting offers:

COMPLETE rust removal
Paint stripping
Removal of body filler (i.e. Bondo)
Grease and foreign matter removal
No hazardous solvents or residue
Fine particle garnet media (not heavy coal slag or silica based sand)

Stop rust from progressing now!

Take the first step to getting your car back on the road. Call 972-442-9793 or contact us online today to schedule.

Here are just a few benefits of choosing us for your blast work:

Professional equipment, used in combination with our full understanding of automotive metal behavior, results in damage-free blasting
Auto twirlers allow us to get to every nook (small fee for hook up)
Our complete paint shop can apply any coating you want post-blast, including epoxy, enamel and powder coating
We’ve done hundreds of panel replacements from minor patch panels to major surgeries; this is the next logical step after blasting/coating
Competitive labor rate of $145/hr for blasting, with most unibody cars starting around 6 hours* (for full-framed cars, add 1-2 additional hours depending on frame complexity and wheel base) – no material fee added to total
Flexible scheduling and quick turnaround
Assistance with body panel, mechanical, suspension, trim & interior disassembly (at teardown labor rate), keeping rebuild plans in mind
Large scale capabilities to fit most any size project

*may vary depending on vehicle size, coatings and layers of paint present

We occasionally receive inquiries about soda blasting; we distance ourselves from soda due to the fact that it leaves a caustic residue that can prevent proper adhesion and potentially destroy your paint job down the road. In addition, while it may remove paint, primer and clean up light surface rust, soda blasting WILL NOT REMOVE the heavy rust and plastic body filler present on most auto restoration projects, again leaving your car vulnerable to future paint problems. Remember, a problem in the first stage of your restoration can rear its ugly head later in terms of headache, time and money. Plastic, shells, and soda simply will not remove rust. Stick with media blasting and save yourself the worry.

This Post Has 60 Comments

  1. Hello, How much would it be to blast and prime a 69 Firebird Subframe that is completely torn down and all suspension components removed? I would also like to have the control arms blasted. Ball joints are removed. Thanks

    1. Sean, thanks for looking into our shop for your blasting needs. Usually a subframe takes about 1 to 1.5 hours to blast, including the control arms. After blasting, it would probably take about an hour to blow out, hang and prep, and prime. It would take one quart of epoxy primer to cover; if you would like to have it finished in a chassis black paint on top of the epoxy, we can do that. We’ve sent you an email with additional details – please let us know if you would like to come in or have any other questions. Thanks!

  2. I have a ’36 Ford 5W coupe body shell that has been stripped (mechanically) of all doors, glass, hood, frame, trunk lid, soft top, etc. down to the bare metal body. The outisde of this body is currently painted and/or primed and should strip easily (some body filler known to be in the top). My real issues/concerns have to do with the inside of the body. What I am going to do is to replace the entire floor pan and some segments of the rocker panels. Therefore, it is wasted time and money to have the floor pan blasted. However, I would like to have the outside and inside blasted as well as the outer perimeter of the floor pan such that the area where I have to cut/weld is clean metal. The central area of the floor pan will be discarded. Is this something you could/would do….or am I being too “picky.” 🙂

    1. Hello Bob!

      Absolutely, we can blast just the perimeter of the floor pan to make replacement easier on you, then blast the rest of the shell as you wish. Blasting is charged by the hour, so time will depend on the current coatings. Afterwards, if you like, we can coat in epoxy primer (for cost of labor and materials) which acts as a moisture barrier and prevents further rusting. If you have any questions, please feel free to give us a call, M-F 7am-4pm.

  3. Hi,

    I have a 64 F100 frame with suspension and was wondering what you all would charge to blast and prime.

    Thanks for you time.


    1. Hi there! Is the frame complete? Or are the suspension components still attached and it’s rolling? If there is no teardown involved on our end, it will save you some money. After blasting, we can prime or paint the frame and any other suspension parts in an enamel of your color choice. Total cost depends on labor time and the amount of parts and materials used. We have sent you an email with some ballpark numbers; please let us know if you have any questions. Thanks!

  4. I have a cj-5 jeep wrangler that I am restoring. It is off the frame so it is just the body, and hood, no doors. I would like an estimate -+

    1. Hi Jim, thanks for your inquiry. We’d be happy to talk with you about your CJ-5. Most importantly, we need to know the current condition of the body, the aim of the restoration, the end product goal, and your working budget. Once we discuss everything in detail and inspect the vehicle, we can put together some ballpark figures. You are welcome to come by and take a tour of our facilities anytime, or give us a call Monday through Friday, 7am to 4pm. Thanks and look forward to speaking with you.

  5. I recently had a 55 T-Bird body soda blasted by a mobile soda blaster. (It was out in the country so dust/mess wasn’t an issue.) It did a good job on paint and body filler, but it would not remove the heavy coat of soft undercoating. My son and I spent many hours with a putty knife and heat gun to get it off. Will your media blasting remove the undercoating, if I ever need to do it on another car?

    Also, do you have any recommendation for cleaning up a body that has been soda blasted? I’ve pressure washed it and painted it with self etching primer. Am I likely to have problems if I don’t get the soda residue off of it?

    1. We use finely crushed garnet instead of soda to blast. This does remove most of the undercoating, but if any is left, we use a torch and scrape it off. As far as the soda residue, the person who blasted it should have put a chemical on the vehicle after he blasted to remove the that. The only other way is to sand blast it to get rid of it.

  6. i have a 68 Dodge Monaco 2dr Fastop. It has rust thru on the left rear quarter from a trunk leak. approx size is 1″x6″ what would be a ballpark to cut out and replace?

    1. Hi Will, thank you for your inquiry. Oftentimes visible rust indicates more extensive damage beneath the paint, which may mean the area needing repair is larger than what is initially apparent (assuming the car is currently painted). Also the location of the repair will affect what needs to be done. It would be best if we could inspect the car and assess the work needed. Please give us a call so we can set up a time to take a look and discuss the details.

  7. I have a 72 Nova that I’d like to have stripped and primered. Can I get an estimate on that? i’m also looking for a shop to do suicide doors and shaved handles. please let me know. thanks

    1. Hello Eric, we appreciate your contacting us. There are several variables that can affect blasting time, such as disassembly required, how many layers of paint / undercoating, amount of previous bodywork, etc. Any initial tear down you do yourself would save on cost, although we can do it for you if you prefer. We do have a full metal/fab shop in house to handle the work on your doors. If you can give us a call, we can set up a time to inspect the car and discuss details and pricing. Thanks and look forward to speaking with you.

  8. I have 4 / 14″x6″ aluminum wheels from a 1983 Mazda Rx7 that need to be blasted to the bare aluminum so I can polish back to the factory look. The tires are still on the wheels and will be replaced. How much would this cost?


    1. Hi George, thanks for contacting us. Cost depends on the condition of the wheels and how quickly the rust and/or coating comes off. We sent you an email with some additional information so please let us know if you have any questions.

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