Media Blasting

It’s important to consider that your paint job is only as good as the surface preparation of the metal being painted. Media blasting is a fast, affordable and safe way completely strip paint, bondo, grime and most importantly, rust from your car in order to provide a clean palette for coating.

Media blasting offers:

  • COMPLETE rust removal
  • Paint stripping
  • Removal of body filler (i.e. Bondo)
  • Removal of e-coat and powder coat deposits
  • Grease and foreign matter removal
  • No hazardous solvents or residue
  • Fine particle garnet media (not heavy coal slag or silica based sand)

North Texas Customs has a streamlined media blasting process and the proper equipment to make stripping your car quick while keeping cost down. We are not an industrial blast house; as a complete resto/rod shop, we know how to treat your car’s panels. In fact, blasting a car first is the only way to warranty our paint jobs since we can be certain any underlying corrosion has been eliminated.

Here are just a few benefits of choosing us for your blast work:

  • Professional equipment, used in combination with our full understanding of automotive metal behavior, results in damage-free blasting
  • Auto twirlers allow us to get to every nook (small fee for hook up)
  • Our complete paint shop can apply any coating you want post-blast, including epoxy, enamel and powder coating
  • We’ve done hundreds of panel replacements from minor patch panels to major surgeries; this is the next logical step after blasting/coating
  • Competitive labor rate of $145/hr for blasting, with most unibody cars starting around 6 hours* (for full-framed cars, add 1-2 additional hours depending on frame complexity and wheel base) – no material fee added to total
  • Flexible scheduling and quick turnaround
  • Assistance with body panel, mechanical, suspension, trim & interior disassembly (at teardown labor rate), keeping rebuild plans in mind
  • Large scale capabilities to fit most any size project

We occasionally receive inquiries about soda blasting; we distance ourselves from soda due to the fact that it leaves a caustic residue that can cause problems in the paint down the road. While it may remove paint, primer and clean up light surface rust, soda WILL NOT REMOVE the heavy rust and plastic body filler present on most auto restoration projects, again leaving your car vulnerable to future paint problems. You don’t have to take our word for it: read the Southern Polyurethanes epoxy tech sheet where SPI warns explicitly against soda blasting under primer – remember, a problem in the first stage of your restoration can rear its ugly head later in terms of headache, time and money. Plastic, shells, and soda simply will not remove rust. Stick with media blasting and save yourself the worry.

Stop rust from progressing now and take the first step to getting your car back on the road. Call 972-442-9793 or email today to get scheduled in.

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*may vary depending on vehicle size, coatings and layers of paint present

36 Responses to “Media Blasting”

  1. I am looking to have a 1969 dodge Charger Media or Soda blasted for restro project. The car has been stripped down but still has the front and rear glass in it. The front fenders have already been removed because they are beyond repair. I am looking for a quote that would include the removal of two pieces of glass. I will consider doing addtional work there as well but trying to get a handle on the needs once if have it clean. Thank you.

    Eric

  2. North Texas Customs says:

    Eric, thanks for your interest in our shop. A car that size, depending on actual time required, would probably run about $2000 to mount on the rotisserie and dismount, media blast inside and out (we use garnet which removes rust, whereas soda will not), clean out grit, and prime all surfaces with PPG epoxy primer. Variables such as layers of paint present, heavy rust spots, undercoating, etc., can affect time needed; however the cost could be less if you don’t want epoxy or if there are any areas that you know need to be replaced, as we can stay off of those areas. The glass removal would probably be done by Deep Ellum Auto glass here at our shop, so they will provide pricing for that step. If you decide on a paint stripping option other than blasting, we still recommend contacting them as they will come to your location, are professional, and have good prices for these old cars. The car needs to have the suspension off prior to blasting and we prefer all panels off and torn down. If you need to deliver the car on its suspension, just make sure all the bolts are loose (but still safe for travel) so that it is easy to remove once here. Of course we can help with these tasks at labor rate if you wish.

  3. Mark says:

    Hello,
    I have a 70 Plymouth RR that I am looking to get completely media blasted. I currently have the car stripped of parts and on a twirler. Do you come to homes at all? Transporting will be a challenge. What options do I have?

  4. North Texas Customs says:

    Hi Mark, thanks for your inquiry. We don’t have a mobile outfit as the dust load emitted with blasting old paint requires collection and documented disposal due to safety regulations. Depending on where you are located, we may be able to offer pickup and delivery for a fee based on distance. If you can give us a call at 972-442-9793 or email info@northtxcustoms.com with your address, we can see if that’s an option.

  5. SIR–What/which blast media mix is best and/or most used to strip cars& motorcycles..and in what sizes[pounds] are they sold? Thanks Michael

  6. North Texas Customs says:

    Hi Michael, we use a very fine grit garnet to blast old metal as it removes rust without damaging the metal profile. However the setup, blasting pressure, safety equipment, and technique used in blasting is also important to achieving a good result. Materials other than metal, such as fiberglass, should be blasted with other media, such as plastic; likewise, situations in which the car or bike is not completely torn down would require other options. There are a variety of media types available and people who advocate those as “the best.” Our choice of garnet reflects its superior rust removal performance as well as our extensive experience with metal behavior, specifically in relation to vehicles. Different vendors supply various grits in various quantities.

  7. Danny Nail says:

    North Texas Customs,

    You have a very impressive website! I have a 1984 Chevrolet C-10 long bed single cab that I am tearing down at the moment. I wanted to know what all I have to disassemble to save myself money and you guys time on that end of the project. I am wanting to get the truck media blasted and primered as well as the frame cleaned and powder coated if that is possible. What do you recommend as this is my first complete restoration? Any information would be a great help and I am looking to also do a lot of the work myslef, call it a pride thing if you will. However, I can take things apart and put some customization into the project, but body work is not in my scope of practice. The work of the cars and trucks that I have seen on your website are impressive to say the least. Again I want to have the opportunity to touch every bit of the process as my truck is tore down and rebuilt and I couldn’t think of a better place than your shop for the body work and paint. Looking forward to working with you in the near future!

    Sincerely,

    Danny Nail

  8. North Texas Customs says:

    Danny, thanks for the kind words. The truck needs to be completely torn down with all sheet metal off of the frame. Everything needs to be down to its original component, i.e., no glass, chrome, gauges, latches, etc. The frame needs to be torn down and to save you the most amount of money, go ahead and remove the ball joints and bushings and we can take it from there. It would be beneficial for us to have a phone call or a face to face visit. Look forward to speaking with you!

  9. tont cope says:

    i have 1934 Ford hood that was soda blasted several years ago,it has surface rust ,would like to get an est. on what it would cost to have it blasted.

  10. North Texas Customs says:

    Hi Tony, thanks for your inquiry. With only surface rust, it would probably take about 10 – 20 minutes at $145/hr plus primer cost if you would like us to spray it.

  11. Billy Wilson says:

    I have a ’69 corvette stingray. Do you have a lot of experience with the fiberglass body? I will have it down to the bare frame soon. What would be the cost to media blast the frame? Do you suggest an epoxy on the frame or powder-coated? What’s the difference in price? Also curious what your rate is on repairing some rust-through spots on the birdcage as well as a little bit of fiberglass repair? Thank you.

  12. North Texas Customs says:

    Mr. Wilson, thank you for your inquiry. We can definitely blast the frame. Cost is by the hour; it would be hard to say exactly how long it would take, it really just depends on how quickly the paint comes off, which shouldn’t be very long unless it was powder coated previously. Post-blast, powder coating would probably be a bit more pricey. We can apply an actual PPG paint with a chassis black finish. As for the body, we recommend Carr’s Corvettes and Customs. They do not do blasting but specialize in fiberglass work. If you have any other questions or would like to schedule the frame blasting, please give us a call at your convenience. Thanks again.

  13. Mike says:

    I have a set of 1934 model a ford wire wheels. Can you give me a rough idea of the cost to blast them? Thank you.

  14. North Texas Customs says:

    Mike, thanks for your inquiry. Based on the photo you emailed, assuming there is no heavy pitting and it is all just rust, ballpark would be around 15-20 minutes per wheel to blast.

  15. Mike Price says:

    I wondered if you can elaborate more on what you mean by caustic residue regarding soda blasting. I am a classic car fanatic and have several 67-72 pickup projects going at any one time. I found out about soda blasting several years ago through a tech article in street rod magazine. Some follow-up research showed that Dallas had a supplier and training center and to be honest i had planned to try to start a business in Houston doing this type of work. I had hoped it would allow me to integrate my love for cars and restorations into a career opportunity. Now with this information I’m stumped and unsure what to think.

  16. North Texas Customs says:

    Mike, thanks for your message. We are happy to hear you want to pursue your love of cars as a career and encourage you to fully research all opportunities. While there may be differing opinions on the subject, for our own quality control we choose not to perform soda blasting or paint over soda blasted metal; this is due to our hands-on experience as well as our own research. The residue left after soda blasting must be 100% completely removed in order for coatings to adhere. With the many curves, angles, metal lips, etc. present on a vehicle, there is a large chance you will miss a spot. This is not a failure you would want to discover after the amount of time, money, and effort that go into a high class paint job. In addition, while soda may get rid of surface rust, it will not completely eliminate the rust from the metal to ensure a clean slate the way that media blasting with garnet does. On fiberglass bodies or cosmetic-only restos, soda blasting can be useful, however it doesn’t make sense for the type of in-depth metal work we do. Best of luck and hope this is helpful to you.

  17. NDL says:

    I have a 1986 Pontiac Parisienne 4 door Brougham that I’d like to fully strip of all paint on the bottom section of the car – roof is okay – front to back. I’d like to remove all the old paint first, then have it painted real soon thereafter. What would you estimate I’d be out of pocket to have all the old paint removed? How long would you need to have the car at your facility, its a daily driver for me. Thanks

  18. North Texas Customs says:

    We appreciate your looking to our business for your project needs. In order for us to blast the vehicle, we would need to take the body off and tear down the car completely to the bare shell. All components would need to be out down to every hinge, nut and bolt, wire, dash, suspension parts, etc. As it is your daily driver, this may be further than you are looking to go, however if you are interested in proceeding please give us a call so we can discuss further details. Thanks!

  19. Chad Harp says:

    Hello I have a 1971 Chevy SWB that I am currently doing a frame off resto on and would like to have the cab and doors and bedfloor media blasted. It is completly torn down what would something like this run me. The floor is just that the bedsides and header panel have been removed and are being replaced so it is just the floor and inner fenders. Thank you

  20. North Texas Customs says:

    Chad, we appreciate your inquiry. We sent you an email with some details and variables that can affect cost. If you would like to get scheduled in or if you have any further questions, please let us know!

  21. Jonathan says:

    How much to blast and prime a 66 mustang fastback that is completely stripped of parts? I Also want all the body panels stripped and primed. The car is untouched and has a average amount of rust for that year model.

  22. North Texas Customs says:

    Jonathan, we appreciate your looking to our shop for your blasting needs. Cost can vary depending on whether the vehicle is completely torn down and all panels are removed, if it’s in original paint, and whether there is undercoating or body filler that needs to be removed. You car is a bit smaller than full size but it is too hard to gauge sight unseen and each car is really a case by case scenario. We charge out by the hour for blasting and priming, and use a PPG epoxy primer which is extremely durable. Turnaround time once we start blasting is 1-3 days on a vehicle of your size. If there are any further questions we can answer or if you would like to get scheduled in, please let us know.

  23. Rick says:

    I looked at your website and was very impressed and liked the comments and responses here. I have a 1961 Classic mini stripped down not much rust on it, I am looking for a quote to have it blasted. Thank you,

  24. North Texas Customs says:

    Rick, thank you for looking to our business for your blasting needs. We are unable to give exact quotes as there are many variables that can affect labor time, such as whether the car is already completely torn down, in original paint, whether there is undercoating or previous bodywork, etc. As your car is smaller size, assuming the current coating and any rust comes off pretty easily, it should be considerably less than a full sized car. If you have any further questions or would like to get scheduled in, please do not hesitate to contact us. Thanks!

  25. Irwin Sewell says:

    I have a ’71 442 hard top with ram air hood that’s sky blue (not original color) with bondo left rear quarter and rust right rear quarter and rear window. I am not asking for detailed quote but was would be target cost for frame off powder coating frame and body, repair quarters and rear window area, bead last, prime and paint midnight blue metallic with regulation 442 stripes on hood, deck lid and sides? I would be driving it in and will bring it by for a more detailed quote. Also, how long would it take to complete? Thanks.

  26. North Texas Customs says:

    Irwin, thanks for contacting us about your 442. For blasting, there are several variables that can affect labor time, such as how much tear down is required, layers of paint present, whether there is undercoating, amount of previous bodywork, etc. We work in phases, meaning we would start with tear down (whatever tear down you would want to do yourself would save on cost), mount to rotisserie, blast and prime. At that point we can assess metal work and parts needs and move on to that phase. After metal work, we would move into paint and body, and finally, reassembly and mechanical. The labor required for a paint job can vary enormously, especially if any panels need to be straightened, if there are stripes, depending on the color and brand of the paint, etc. Parts for assembly, mechanical, and interior are also a large cost factor and will be dictated by what the car needs as well as what you want. All work here is done by the hour and materials are not included in the hourly rate. If you are available to call or schedule a visit the shop, inspecting the car and discussing the project in more detail with you would help get us the same page about your timeline, what you are needing done, and how we can get you there. Thanks and look forward to speaking with you.

  27. Steve Riley says:

    Searching for an early Bronco I have located a 66 half cab.I have only seen pics and it is not running.It has what appears to be surface rust on the rear panels and I was told the bed had holes.When it dries up next week I can take a look.Can you give me an estimate on media blasting with some detailed photos or an approx. cost for an early Bronco tub?

  28. North Texas Customs says:

    Hi Steve,

    It’s pretty hard to give an accurate estimate without seeing it in person, but we can give you a ballpark figure. Variables like paint type and the extent of rust, bondo, undercoating, and other coatings, affect the time needed and therefore total cost of blasting. Give us a call or come by and see us in Wylie!

  29. George Reeves says:

    I have 4 / 14″x6″ aluminum wheels from a 1983 Mazda Rx7 that need to be blasted to the bare aluminum so I can polish back to the factory look. The tires are still on the wheels and will be replaced. How much would this cost?

    Thanks..

  30. North Texas Customs says:

    Hi George, thanks for contacting us. Cost depends on the condition of the wheels and how quickly the rust and/or coating comes off. We sent you an email with some additional information so please let us know if you have any questions.

  31. DAve says:

    I recently had a 55 T-Bird body soda blasted by a mobile soda blaster. (It was out in the country so dust/mess wasn’t an issue.) It did a good job on paint and body filler, but it would not remove the heavy coat of soft undercoating. My son and I spent many hours with a putty knife and heat gun to get it off. Will your media blasting remove the undercoating, if I ever need to do it on another car?

    Also, do you have any recommendation for cleaning up a body that has been soda blasted? I’ve pressure washed it and painted it with self etching primer. Am I likely to have problems if I don’t get the soda residue off of it?

  32. North Texas Customs says:

    We use finely crushed garnet instead of soda to blast. This does remove most of the undercoating, but if any is left, we use a torch and scrape it off. As far as the soda residue, the person who blasted it should have put a chemical on the vehicle after he blasted to remove the that. The only other way is to sand blast it to get rid of it.

  33. -dov says:

    Hi,

    I have a 64 F100 frame with suspension and was wondering what you all would charge to blast and prime.

    Thanks for you time.

    -dov

  34. North Texas Customs says:

    Hi there! Is the frame complete? Or are the suspension components still attached and it’s rolling? If there is no teardown involved on our end, it will save you some money. After blasting, we can prime or paint the frame and any other suspension parts in an enamel of your color choice. Total cost depends on labor time and the amount of parts and materials used. We have sent you an email with some ballpark numbers; please let us know if you have any questions. Thanks!

  35. Robert Smith says:

    I have a ’36 Ford 5W coupe body shell that has been stripped (mechanically) of all doors, glass, hood, frame, trunk lid, soft top, etc. down to the bare metal body. The outisde of this body is currently painted and/or primed and should strip easily (some body filler known to be in the top). My real issues/concerns have to do with the inside of the body. What I am going to do is to replace the entire floor pan and some segments of the rocker panels. Therefore, it is wasted time and money to have the floor pan blasted. However, I would like to have the outside and inside blasted as well as the outer perimeter of the floor pan such that the area where I have to cut/weld is clean metal. The central area of the floor pan will be discarded. Is this something you could/would do….or am I being too “picky.” :-)

  36. North Texas Customs says:

    Hello Bob!

    Absolutely, we can blast just the perimeter of the floor pan to make replacement easier on you, then blast the rest of the shell as you wish. Blasting is charged by the hour, so time will depend on the current coatings. Afterwards, if you like, we can coat in epoxy primer (for cost of labor and materials) which acts as a moisture barrier and prevents further rusting. If you have any questions, please feel free to give us a call, M-F 7am-4pm.

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